In Search of Fireflies

When you meet a sturdy eighty – nine year old gentle man with a strong handshake and, an even stronger gait, you are blown away by his energy. That was us when Growth Lane Book Club visited Prof. & Mrs. Edward B. Rugumayo on Friday, October 27, 2023 in Fort Portal City.

The drive to Fort Portal was bumpy between Mityana and Mubende towns, but the terrain was all activity and cheer. Being October, light drizzles poured as we drove through the leafy farms with maize, coffee, matooke, tea estates, and forests green – cheeked and showy.

The stop over at Mubende trading centre got us munching finger licking roadside chicken and gonja (plantain). I like to think that food brings out our character in unique ways. I travelled with three friends from the Book Club, and was joined by other four in a different car.

Our stop over at Mubende, got us talking about the tasty gonja and, how we ought to eat minimally in readiness for the sumptuous meal that awaited us at Prof. Rugumayo’s. The team I travelled with decided that Kadongo Kamu music through out the journey would be our travel playlist, thanks to Ronald Kalema, who sang along to almost every song.

It was more of a karaoke session, as we giggled away. I had never keenly listened to the lyrics, but I learnt some good lessons from the songs that were played. It was educative folklore, quite rich culture and messages carried in those lyrics. I was impressed.

The five-hour journey was eventful and well earned when we got to Fort Portal City. We were welcomed by cars rattling down the semi crowded streets, motorbikes hooting while darting narrowly among cars, pedestrians and cyclists.

The day’s colour was bright and sunny and slowly dissolved into gray, and the distant Mt. Rwenzori peak became opaque silhouettes of crouching giants. Our arrival at Prof. Edward Rugumayo’s home was met with gracious hospitality from him and his lovely wife, Foibe Rugumayo. Mama Foibe introduced and embraced each of us, with a hug for days. I felt instant affection towards her.

She reminded me of my mother. “You are Luo like my husband’s descendants. They descend from a Luo lineage,” she excitedly said after I introduced myself. Fort Portal Botanical Garden overlooks his front garden, which he pointed out to us in the valley below.

He has done quite some impressive work with it. The house proved even more impressive once he led us inside. It’s size was estimated to contain at least three apartments in Kampala. I felt as though I had stepped into a mini palace.

We were given a tour of the house, which had antiques from all over the world. The glittering tiles from Spain, and doors and windows from South Africa made us marvel at the simple yet unique architecture. The house is earth quake resistant, given the location of Fort Portal, which is prone to earth quakes.

I was intrigued by his home office, which had a library and his journals from eight decades ago lined up on the shelves. What amused us all was the bed, which he said he used for his afternoon siesta, when he needed to rest his brain from all the writing.

We used the opportunity to sign the dummy book of Why Fireflies Glow. The oohs and aahs that followed when he showed us a book gifted to him by a friend with different images of fireflies was creative. We were joined by his friends from Mountains of the Moon University who introduced themselves as; Prof. Dr. John M. Kasenene, Mr. Clovis Kabaseke, Mr. Tom Mboijana and Mr. Moses Bukenya.

They all had either worked or were currently working at the University.Conversation flowed from nutrition, environment, ecology, forestry, climate change, politics and history. I had never felt more present drinking from the cup of knowledge of the academicians and citizens who had lived, survived and thrived through generations before us.

It was an entire history class for me. Stories of the turbulent years in the 70’s and 80’s were revealed, more vibrantly and truthfully. Mr. Tom Mboijana narrated to us how he had served all the Ugandan Presidents while he served as Chef at Nile Mansions, Chobe Safari Lodge and Pakuba in Murchison Falls National Park.Mr. Clovis Kabaseke narrated his work in forestry, ecology and research.

A lecturer in horticulture and expert in herbs and medicinal plants, we were educated about the different species of trees and their medicinal use. In the 60’s as a forestry officer, he created an inventory on the bird species in Uganda.

Prof. Dr. John M. Kasenene explained the history of Mountains of the Moon University and how he had recently handed over the Vice Chancellorship after it was transformed into a Public University in 2022. Mr. Moses Bukenya, an Information Technology professional narrated his humble beginnings at Mountains of the Moon University as a pioneer student, who had risen through the ranks to work in a Senior leadership position in the IT department.

What I remember most about the visit was the food, which was a three-course meal. I was served the first course by Prof. himself and felt honoured. Foibe took charge of serving every guest, and went out of her way to ensure that we left nothing to waste. We were served ice cream and cake for dessert by her, and she out did herself.

We were overwhelmed by her humility and generosity. My stomach worms must have wondered why I over fed them. I guess they surrendered. After lunch, we handed over gifts we had come along with to Prof. and Mrs. Rugumayo.

The gracious couple happily accepted the gifts and seemed overly impressed. We used the moment to take a few pictures with Prof. Rugumayo’s book, Why Fireflies Glow together with the couple. The weather outside was gloomy and chilly, and we opted to get back into the cozy sitting room, where we indulged in a question and answer session with Prof.

Memories of his childhood and his naughtiness were revealed. I was impressed by his memory of the 30’s and 40’s. He is brilliant and savvy. Further discussion on his leadership role in the National Consultative Council between 1979 – 1980, the Moshi Unity Conference, his life as a diplomat and the Ministerial positions he has held over the years were narrated to us with effortless wisecracking and self- possessed charm.At 8:00pm, we had to retire to our places of abode, after spending the best five hours with the Rugumayo’s.

Before we did, Foibe showcased her oyster mushroom project at the back of the house and I learnt a thing or two about mushrooms.I found them unassuming, authentic and clean-hearted people. Our Patron, Afande Kasingye, on our return shared a message received from Prof. to the group platform.

“Growth Lane Book Club are the first Ugandans to ever drive to my residence to chat with me about my political and personal life ever since my return to the country in 2005. Thank you for making time to come visit me. You are a brilliant team and I had to go all out to offer you the best service.”

Special thanks to the Growth Lane Book Club, especially to those that made the trip. Afande Asan Kasingye, Ronald Kalema, John Mary Luwaga, Martha Nalumansi Oola, Rovince Lillian Ndagire, Allan Odong and Majwega Robert.Oh! We didn’t find any fireflies. Looks like they became extinct according to Prof. Rugumayo.

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Sheilah Ajok

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